The Spoke Curriculum - Session 1: Difference between revisions
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Start with a game to gauge existing knowledge and interests. | Start with a game to gauge existing knowledge and interests. | ||
=== Details === | ===Details=== | ||
Participants are brought together and presented with the main components of a disassembled bicycle by the mentor/mechanic (e.g. seat post, tire, etc). | |||
For each component participants will be asked if they are familiar with the part, and what it is. The participant who correctly names the part will then take the item and place it on the predetermined space allocated, and labeled, on the wall. By the end of this activity a disassembled, and properly labeled bicycle, will be on display. | |||
This activity will provide a non-competitive way to ease tensions and become familiar with peers, mentors and the terminology and major components they will be working on in the weeks ahead. The disassembled bike will then remain on the wall for the duration of the sessions and will serve as a visual cue to be referred to. | |||
In order for this to be a realistic task, the bicycle will only be disassembled into it's major components (i.e. a hub vs. the cup, cones, bearings, etc). Furthermore, posters accompanied by their proper name will need to be present in the space. This will give participants the visual references necessary to name the parts correctly and will facilitate in a noncompetitive environment. | |||
=== Content === | === Content === | ||
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| This is an offline activity. The instructor should ask questions based on the level of the the class, starting at the very basics (how does the bike tire work?) and becoming more challenging if the students can handle it (what do the bottom bracket, headset, and hubs all have in common?), but still relevant (or at least interesting). The goal is to gauge existing knowledge and interest, as well as to hint at interesting learning possibilities for the next few weeks, without discouraging anyone. | | This is an offline activity. The instructor should ask questions based on the level of the the class, starting at the very basics (how does the bike tire work?) and becoming more challenging if the students can handle it (what do the bottom bracket, headset, and hubs all have in common?), but still relevant (or at least interesting). The goal is to gauge existing knowledge and interest, as well as to hint at interesting learning possibilities for the next few weeks, without discouraging anyone. | ||
It should also serve as an icebreaker and introduce | It should also serve as an icebreaker and introduce '''participants''' to each other, hopefully in a non-competitive way. | ||
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[[File:hub74.jpg|thumb|upright|right|http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/hub74.jpg]] | [[File:hub74.jpg|thumb|upright|right|http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/hub74.jpg]] | ||
The bicycle is made of a few main components. The frame is the main | The bicycle is made of a few main components. The frame is the main component of the bicycle: commonly in a classic diamond design. The fork holds the front wheel in its dropouts, and the stem clamps onto the fork and the handlebars. The saddle attaches to the seatpost. The rear wheel attaches to the rear dropouts. | ||
The pedals attach to the cranks, which are attached to the bottom bracket. The chain runs around the cogs and the chainring, and derailleurs push it from side to side. | The pedals attach to the cranks, which are attached to the bottom bracket. The chain runs around the cogs and the chainring, and derailleurs push it from side to side. | ||
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Some problems are only apparent while riding a bicycle. For example, if an unusual noise is repetitive, occurring with every pedal revolution, the problem could be in the crankset area (pedal, bottom bracket, or chainring). A noise every second or third revolution might be in the chain, such as a stiff link. Ask yourself if the noise occurs when pedaling only or when coasting, and note if the noise occurs under load, such as on a hill or if you hit a bump. | Some problems are only apparent while riding a bicycle. For example, if an unusual noise is repetitive, occurring with every pedal revolution, the problem could be in the crankset area (pedal, bottom bracket, or chainring). A noise every second or third revolution might be in the chain, such as a stiff link. Ask yourself if the noise occurs when pedaling only or when coasting, and note if the noise occurs under load, such as on a hill or if you hit a bump. | ||
The first step to examining a bike is to | The first step to examining a bike is to look for issues while riding. Does the chain fall off? When (e.g. only when they're shifting and climbing a hill?), and in what gear? Do the tires hold air? How does it shift? Brake? Do the brakes squeal? Are there any other noises? | ||
If the bike is safe to ride, and the tires have adequate air pressure, you can take the bike for a test ride | If the bike is safe to ride, and the tires have adequate air pressure, you can take the bike for a test ride. Often this is not possible or necessary until after some repairs have been made first. | ||
With the bike in a repair stand, you can also visually inspect the bike for problems, test shifting, and feel for loose or overtight adjustments. This is where you can often pinpoint the source of problems that you felt or heard while riding. | With the bike in a repair stand, you can also visually inspect the bike for problems, test shifting, and feel for loose or overtight adjustments. This is where you can often pinpoint the source of problems that you felt or heard while riding. | ||
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|} | |} | ||
== Tools == | == Tools == | ||
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=== Description === | === Description === | ||
Participants select a bike. Size, style. | |||
=== Details === | === Details === | ||
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=== Description === | === Description === | ||
Back-to-front examination of individual bikes. | |||
=== Details === | === Details === | ||
Wipe down bike to make it easier to inspect (explain not to use a water hose!). Start with the drivetrain. Turn the cranks. Check: rear shifting/derailleur, front shifting, pedals, bottom bracket, rear brakes, rear hub, rear spokes. Check chain wear, chainring wear, jockey wheel wear, cassette/freewheel wear. Check front hub, front spokes, front brakes, headset. Check tires & tubes. Check housing & cables for breaks/kinks/corrosion. Check bar grips/saddle for deterioation. Check stem height (not too high). Check the seatpost (make sure it's not seized). | |||
=== Content === | === Content === | ||
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Now that you've chosen a bike, put it in the bike stand and check over it thoroughly to see what work it needs. This is called "service writing" in a bike shop, and is an important skill. Figuring out what needs to be done avoids surprises: you don't want to spend a month fixing up a bike, only to discover at the end that you can't adjust the seatpost. | |||
If the bike is quite dirty, wipe it down first so that you can see the components better, and so you don't get as dirty while working on it. Never use pressurized water to wash a bike! It gets into bearings and washes out the grease, and then rusts. A cloth and mild cleaning solution works well. | |||
Follow the "Bike Doctor's Diagnosis" chart to check the bike. Start with the drivetrain. While turning the cranks, check the full range of rear shifting. Does it shift well? Does it reach the full range? Does it fall off? Now check the full range of the front shifting for the same. Check the pedals. Do they spin freely? Do they feel loose? | |||
Grab the cranks and try to wiggle them side-to-side. Is there play? | |||
Turn the rear wheel. Does it spin freely and run straight (true)? Are there any flat spots? Pull on the rear brakes. Do they stop the wheel well? Do the brake pads hit the rim squarely on both sides, without going above or below the rim? | |||
Grip the rear wheel on opposite sides, and try to wiggle them side-to-side. Is there play? Grab pairs of spokes and pull, checking all the spokes, feeling for very loose spokes or broken spokes. | |||
Measure the chain to determine chain wear. Look at the chainrings, cogs and jockey wheels for wear. | |||
Check the front wheel for play. Check its spokes. Check to see if it spins freely. Check it for true and round. Check the front brakes. | |||
Check the headset for play by gripping the fork with one hand, and wrapping the other hand around the headtube and headset. Try to rock the fork, and feel for movement in the headset. You can also check for headset play by putting the bike on the ground, holding the front brake with one hand while holding the headset/headtube in the other, and trying to rock the bike forward and back. Check that the handlebars turn easily, and without any notching. They should turn towards gravity on their own. Check that the stem height isn't above the minimum insertion line (you shouldn't be able to see it: if you can, it's dangerously high and can break). | |||
Check the tires for wear and tubes for air pressure. Before inflating the tires, make sure the tire is properly mounted and doesn't have any holes. | |||
Check brake and shift housing and cables for breaks, kinks, and corrosion. | |||
Check bar grips and the saddle for deterioation. | |||
Adjust the seatpost to make sure it can be moved. | |||
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Distribute the "bike doctor's diagnosis" repair charts and assess bikes one-on-one with students. | |||
|} | |} | ||
== | === Specific Skills === | ||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
|+Repair Skills | |||
! scope="col" | Skill | |||
! scope="col" | Content | |||
! scope="col" | Reference | |||
|- | |||
| Drive Train | |||
| Creaking and squeaking noises are annoying, and can be a sign of more serious problems. Damage to parts may result if they are left unattended. If during a ride you hear a creak or squeak once per revolution, it is probably located in the crankset and pedal area. If the noise is once every 2 - 3 revolutions, it may be in the chain. | |||
The most common cause of creaking is the crank being loose on the spindle. Remove the crank bolts, lubricate the threads and under the bolt head, and re-install. | |||
On some cranksets, the individual chainrings are replaceable, and are held to the cranks by chainring bolts. Use a hex key wrench and check each bolt. Hold the back chainring nut from spinning with a chainring nut wrench. | |||
Tighten pedals into crankarms. Pedal bearings can also creak. Spin the pedal and listen for noise. | |||
The bottom bracket may not be properly secured into the frame. Most bike frames use a threaded bottom bracket shell. If the bearing cups or retaining lockring are not tight, there may be movement between the internal and external threads. | |||
Listen for dry links by spinning the chain in a repair stand. Lubricate as necessary, with a drop of lubricant on each roller and rivet. Look at each and every rivet to check misalignmet in the chain plates. Inspect for twists in side plate, or burrs, cuts or other damage to the side plates. Place chain in a gear combination that relaxes the rear cage, and spin chain backwards. If the chain hops as it passes of the pulley wheels, it may have a tight or rusty link. | |||
loose spokes | |||
spoke protector | |||
frame cracks | |||
saddle | |||
headset | |||
stem & handlebars | |||
cassette lockring | |||
| http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/trouble-shooting-a-creaky-or-noisy-drive-train | |||
|- | |||
| Seatposts and Stems | |||
| | |||
| http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/seized-seatposts-and-stems | |||
|- | |||
| Handlebar Grips | |||
| | |||
| http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/handlebar-grip-installation | |||
|- | |||
| Spokes | |||
| | |||
| http://www.top10bikefixes.org/images/straighten-wheel/check-spokes.jpg | |||
|} | |||
== Charts == | |||
=== Description === | === Description === | ||
Make a "doctor's chart" of findings. | |||
=== Details === | === Details === | ||
TBD | |||
=== Content === | === Content === | ||
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| | | This chart will go into detail about the diagnosis (what to check, how to check it, and what the findings mean) | ||
|} | |} | ||