The Spoke Curriculum - Session 1
Games
Description
Start with a game to gauge existing knowledge and interests.
Details
Participants are brought together and presented with the main components of a disassembled bicycle by the mentor/mechanic (e.g. seat post, tire, etc).
For each component participants will be asked if they are familiar with the part, and what it is. The participant who correctly names the part will then take the item and place it on the predetermined space allocated, and labeled, on the wall. By the end of this activity a disassembled, and properly labeled bicycle, will be on display.
This activity will provide a non-competitive way to ease tensions and become familiar with peers, mentors and the terminology and major components they will be working on in the weeks ahead. The disassembled bike will then remain on the wall for the duration of the sessions and will serve as a visual cue to be referred to.
In order for this to be a realistic task, the bicycle will only be disassembled into it's major components (i.e. a hub vs. the cup, cones, bearings, etc). Furthermore, posters accompanied by their proper name will need to be present in the space. This will give participants the visual references necessary to name the parts correctly and will facilitate in a noncompetitive environment.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
| TBD | This is an offline activity. The instructor should ask questions based on the level of the the class, starting at the very basics (how does the bike tire work?) and becoming more challenging if the students can handle it (what do the bottom bracket, headset, and hubs all have in common?), but still relevant (or at least interesting). The goal is to gauge existing knowledge and interest, as well as to hint at interesting learning possibilities for the next few weeks, without discouraging anyone.
It should also serve as an icebreaker and introduce participants to each other, hopefully in a non-competitive way. |
Overview of bike
Description
Cursory: just awareness of the parts of the bike, and similarities in mechanics
Details
Show some cutaway cross-sections of hubs, tires, etc., to show innards without going into details. Demonstrate why it's interesting, and encourage excitement for learning later.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
 The bicycle is made of a few main components. The frame is the main component of the bicycle: commonly in a classic diamond design. The fork holds the front wheel in its dropouts, and the stem clamps onto the fork and the handlebars. The saddle attaches to the seatpost. The rear wheel attaches to the rear dropouts. The pedals attach to the cranks, which are attached to the bottom bracket. The chain runs around the cogs and the chainring, and derailleurs push it from side to side. The word wheel refers to the entire assembly of tire, tube, rim, spokes, hub, and cogs. They all turn on the axle of the wheel. The key parts that allow the wheel to turn are the ball bearings, which are sandwiched between a cup that holds the bearings, and a cone that rests against the inside of the bearings. Both wheels, the bottom bracket, pedals, and the headset all use this same basic mechanism to rotate. We will learn how to service wheel hubs and bottom brackets, and possibly headsets too, but the procedures are usually very similar. |
 Show a bottom bracket when talking about them, since it's not apparent what that is or how the cranks attach to it. Showing a cutaway hub, with caged bearings showing, as well as a separate, loose cup & cone assembly is very helpful to demonstrate hubs. |
Diagnosing mechanical problems
Description
Discuss ways to best diagnose: on the bike, off the bike
Details
On the bike tells many things that you can't tell off-the-bike: a sound every pedal stroke, or problems only when torqueing, etc. Off-the-bike lets you actually see and feel things.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
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Diagnosing mechanical problems is a skill that becomes easier as you gain experience with the different repairs that a bicycle might need. Asking experienced mechanics is often very helpful, but even they may not always be able to correctly identify a problem immediately. Some problems are only apparent while riding a bicycle. For example, if an unusual noise is repetitive, occurring with every pedal revolution, the problem could be in the crankset area (pedal, bottom bracket, or chainring). A noise every second or third revolution might be in the chain, such as a stiff link. Ask yourself if the noise occurs when pedaling only or when coasting, and note if the noise occurs under load, such as on a hill or if you hit a bump. The first step to examining a bike is to look for issues while riding. Does the chain fall off? When (e.g. only when they're shifting and climbing a hill?), and in what gear? Do the tires hold air? How does it shift? Brake? Do the brakes squeal? Are there any other noises? If the bike is safe to ride, and the tires have adequate air pressure, you can take the bike for a test ride. Often this is not possible or necessary until after some repairs have been made first. With the bike in a repair stand, you can also visually inspect the bike for problems, test shifting, and feel for loose or overtight adjustments. This is where you can often pinpoint the source of problems that you felt or heard while riding. |
Tools
Description
Show tools, explain importance of using the right tool to not damage tool or bike
Details
Tools can be expensive, some are speciality, some are general. Metric vs. imperial? Use the right size: smallest wrench possible, biggest screwdriver possible.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
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Bicycles use both common tools such as screwdrivers, wrenches, and hex wrenches (allen keys), as well as specialty bike tools. Tools can be very expensive (hundreds of dollars for a single tool), and improper use can wreck a bike, wreck a tool, or cause injury, so it's very important to use the right tool. Almost all bicycles (with the exception of some very old, usually English bikes) use metric nuts and bolts. You should avoid imperial-sized (inches) tools, as even if they seem to fit, trying to use them will usually cause the damage to nuts and bolts, rounding them off and making them impossible to remove. You should also avoid using an adjustable wrench wherever possible, for the same reason. When using wrenches, use the smallest size that will fit over the bolt head/nut. Make sure it is on fully before turning. This will prevent it from slipping. Hold the wrench for good mechanical advantage, and watch where you place your hands, so that if the tool moves suddenly while you're applying force (torque), you won't injure yourself. When using screwdrivers and hex wrenches, use the largest one that will fit properly. Using smaller screwdrivers or hex wrenches can strip the bolts. |
Repair stand
Description
How to use the repair stand
Details
Don't overclamp, clamp on the seatpost if possible. Ask what happens if you clamp a cable. Driveside out.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
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Repair stands are the basic piece of equipment for a bike shop. They allow bikes to be raised or lowered and rotated, and make repairs much easier. Some adjustments (brakes and shifting) can only properly be done in a bike stand, and not with the bike upside-down. Clamp the bike using the seatpost, if possible. You may have to raise the seat to do this. Ensure that the seatpost is clamped tightly in the bike frame, so it doesn't slip out while you're working on the bike! If you can't clamp the seatpost, clamp on an area of the frame that won't interfere with your repairs. The pedals should turn freely (without hitting the stand), and the clamp shouldn't compress any cables or cable housing. Most repair stand clamps have a groove for cables to pass through without being compressed by the clamp, but it's still best to avoid clamping over cables, since this can get in the way of replacement or create problems if the cable doesn't move freely. Don't overtighten the clamp. You should be able to close it with two fingers! Overtightening the clamp can crush a bicycle frame, permanently ruining it. When you put a bike in a stand, have the driveside (the chain side) facing out, since you'll need to see and access this side to work on it. |
Picking a bike
Description
Participants select a bike. Size, style.
Details
Proper bike fit is important, especially for larger bikes. If you don't like the bike to start with, you won't want to ride it.
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
|
The most important thing about selecting a bike is that you should want to ride it. If you don't want to ride a particular bike when you see it, you should pick a different bike. Once you find a bike you like, you need to make sure it fits you. If the bike is too large, it will be unstable when you ride it, and can cause knee and back injury. You can also injure yourself if you slide off the saddle and land on the top tube. A bike that's too small can also cause knee pain, as well as being inefficient to ride (i.e. you have to work harder to go places, and you can't go as fast). When your saddle height is set correctly, you should have a 5-10 degree bend in your knee at the lowest point of your pedal stroke. Check this while sitting in the saddle with both feet on the pedals: use a workbench to help balance. If you place your heels on the pedals at the lowest point (instead of the ball of the foot), your leg should be nearly fully extended. You shouldn't be able to place your feet flat on the ground while you're seated. After adjusting the saddle height, see how the bike feels with your hands on the handlebars. Have someone help stabilize the bike for you. Make sure you don't feel like you're overreaching or crouched too much, nor that you're cramped from a bike that's too small. You will be able to make some adjustments to the handlebar height, but generally not more than a couple centimetres. Now that the you've found a bike that fits, visually inspect the frame for damage. Rust is okay, but any cracks in the frame (especially near the joints) make the bike unsafe. Dents in aluminum frames are also unsafe. Dents in steel frames require a judgement call. You can tell steel frames from aluminum with a magnet: magnets will only stick to steel parts on a bike. Look at the fork to see if one side is misaligned with the other, or if the entire fork has been bent backwards from a crash. Look straight down the bike to see if the frame is obviously out of alignment. |
Traditionally, a bike frame is measured along the seat tube of the bike frame, from the centre of the bottom bracket spindle (where the cranks attached) to the middle of the top tube. This is only appropriate for bikes that have horizontal top tubes (level with the ground). On such a bike, the rider should generally have about 1-inch of clearance between the top-tube when standing with both feet flat on the ground. Many modern bikes, as well as smaller bikes, have top tubes that slope down toward the seat tube, so bicycle manufacturers give frame sizes that don't necessarily correspond to any direct measurement of a bike. These measurements can vary between manufacturers, further making comparisons difficult. Forward reach, standover clearance, and comfort are the main factors to observe when sizing a bike for an individual. With the saddle is properly adjusted, the person should be able to steer without risk of hitting their knees on the handlebars, nor should the elbows be fully extended. |
Diagnosis
Description
Back-to-front examination of individual bikes.
Details
Wipe down bike to make it easier to inspect (explain not to use a water hose!). Start with the drivetrain. Turn the cranks. Check: rear shifting/derailleur, front shifting, pedals, bottom bracket, rear brakes, rear hub, rear spokes. Check chain wear, chainring wear, jockey wheel wear, cassette/freewheel wear. Check front hub, front spokes, front brakes, headset. Check tires & tubes. Check housing & cables for breaks/kinks/corrosion. Check bar grips/saddle for deterioation. Check stem height (not too high). Check the seatpost (make sure it's not seized).
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
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Now that you've chosen a bike, put it in the bike stand and check over it thoroughly to see what work it needs. This is called "service writing" in a bike shop, and is an important skill. Figuring out what needs to be done avoids surprises: you don't want to spend a month fixing up a bike, only to discover at the end that you can't adjust the seatpost. If the bike is quite dirty, wipe it down first so that you can see the components better, and so you don't get as dirty while working on it. Never use pressurized water to wash a bike! It gets into bearings and washes out the grease, and then rusts. A cloth and mild cleaning solution works well. Follow the "Bike Doctor's Diagnosis" chart to check the bike. Start with the drivetrain. While turning the cranks, check the full range of rear shifting. Does it shift well? Does it reach the full range? Does it fall off? Now check the full range of the front shifting for the same. Check the pedals. Do they spin freely? Do they feel loose? Grab the cranks and try to wiggle them side-to-side. Is there play? Turn the rear wheel. Does it spin freely and run straight (true)? Are there any flat spots? Pull on the rear brakes. Do they stop the wheel well? Do the brake pads hit the rim squarely on both sides, without going above or below the rim? Grip the rear wheel on opposite sides, and try to wiggle them side-to-side. Is there play? Grab pairs of spokes and pull, checking all the spokes, feeling for very loose spokes or broken spokes. Measure the chain to determine chain wear. Look at the chainrings, cogs and jockey wheels for wear. Check the front wheel for play. Check its spokes. Check to see if it spins freely. Check it for true and round. Check the front brakes. Check the headset for play by gripping the fork with one hand, and wrapping the other hand around the headtube and headset. Try to rock the fork, and feel for movement in the headset. You can also check for headset play by putting the bike on the ground, holding the front brake with one hand while holding the headset/headtube in the other, and trying to rock the bike forward and back. Check that the handlebars turn easily, and without any notching. They should turn towards gravity on their own. Check that the stem height isn't above the minimum insertion line (you shouldn't be able to see it: if you can, it's dangerously high and can break). Check the tires for wear and tubes for air pressure. Before inflating the tires, make sure the tire is properly mounted and doesn't have any holes. Check brake and shift housing and cables for breaks, kinks, and corrosion. Check bar grips and the saddle for deterioation. Adjust the seatpost to make sure it can be moved. |
Distribute the "bike doctor's diagnosis" repair charts and assess bikes one-on-one with students. |
Specific Skills
| Skill | Content | Reference |
|---|---|---|
| Drive Train | Creaking and squeaking noises are annoying, and can be a sign of more serious problems. Damage to parts may result if they are left unattended. If during a ride you hear a creak or squeak once per revolution, it is probably located in the crankset and pedal area. If the noise is once every 2 - 3 revolutions, it may be in the chain.
The most common cause of creaking is the crank being loose on the spindle. Remove the crank bolts, lubricate the threads and under the bolt head, and re-install. On some cranksets, the individual chainrings are replaceable, and are held to the cranks by chainring bolts. Use a hex key wrench and check each bolt. Hold the back chainring nut from spinning with a chainring nut wrench. Tighten pedals into crankarms. Pedal bearings can also creak. Spin the pedal and listen for noise. The bottom bracket may not be properly secured into the frame. Most bike frames use a threaded bottom bracket shell. If the bearing cups or retaining lockring are not tight, there may be movement between the internal and external threads. Listen for dry links by spinning the chain in a repair stand. Lubricate as necessary, with a drop of lubricant on each roller and rivet. Look at each and every rivet to check misalignmet in the chain plates. Inspect for twists in side plate, or burrs, cuts or other damage to the side plates. Place chain in a gear combination that relaxes the rear cage, and spin chain backwards. If the chain hops as it passes of the pulley wheels, it may have a tight or rusty link. loose spokes spoke protector frame cracks saddle headset stem & handlebars cassette lockring |
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/trouble-shooting-a-creaky-or-noisy-drive-train |
| Seatposts and Stems | http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/seized-seatposts-and-stems | |
| Handlebar Grips | http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/handlebar-grip-installation | |
| Spokes | http://www.top10bikefixes.org/images/straighten-wheel/check-spokes.jpg |
Charts
Description
Make a "doctor's chart" of findings.
Details
TBD
Content
| Primary Content | Instructor Notes |
|---|---|
| This chart will go into detail about the diagnosis (what to check, how to check it, and what the findings mean) |